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To achieve bllex exposure with a Bolex H16 camera there are two main steps you need to address and find the answers to: There is unlike other film cameras a lot of confusion and uncertainty out there about determining a H16 cameras boex angle. This I think is due to all the subtle differences in models and revisions plus a lot of printed historical inaccuracies, confusion, wrongly applied compensations, bolexx forum posts and misinformation.
I aim to explain why these inaccuracies have come about so as to once and for all banish this long standing confusion and leave no lingering doubts. All Bolex H cameras manufactured since which includes all H16 Cameras above Serial No are equipped with this new claw movement.
But the first seeds of confusion are starting to be sown somewhere in the distant past. The Bolex Collector website and other sources has this one down as degrees?
Did they really make a new shutter angle 1 degree different for this model only 1 year from the new edict? Did you get that right editorial staff at Bolex Reporter in ? Or was it actually Degrees still?
Did they really make a new shutter angle now 2 degrees different from the new edict 4 years later? They were still deciding as to how they were going to go forwards with the new Reflex idea just as how they dropped the DV marking on their Reflex lenses at this point and settled on RX.
It seems the first two Reflex cameras were a bit of a try out even though they were released to the public they didn’t have everything set up as Bolex wanted it going forwards so……. So from now on Bolex are producing two types of shutter angle one for cameras with variable shutters Degrees Max and one without Degrees Fixed. Now we need a camera to start making this change on…. From this point onwards everyone should be in agreement every Camera with a variable shutter has its shutter angle as Degrees.
Bolex collector has the shutter angle pegged at Degrees not However Andrew in his book stating the shutter angle is when its actually is a clever fudge to be able to shoot film with a normal cine light meter and still get good exposure. It is a virtual value to use to compensate light meter readings took off normal light meters; the real physical shutter is still Degrees I talk about this compensation in Step 2 Next.
This however seems to have been accepted as fact by a lot of people and I can see guides colleges have wrote for their filmmaking classes making out the variable shutter is anywhere between Degrees. For Non Variable shutter cameras above he says Degrees not for some reason.
He also agrees with Addendum 2 found by Martin Stent that there was a change to alter the shutter angle prior to Reflex cameras as he says up to the introduction of the reflex cameras the shutter angle was We also have Degrees Mentioned in various places where does this value come from?
Bolex H16 User
bloex Well it seems to come from Bolex themselves. I have a July Price list from them and they talk about the technical specs of the available wind up variable shutter cameras H16 SBM and H16 REX5 and state they have a Degree variable shutter angle. Since when did you maunal an extra 5 degrees on sometime between and Bolex?
If so from what serial number? It appears that if you were a Bolex Rex Original or Rex 1 owner you have been misled by all official Bolex booklets and advice in books such as those discussed above as anyone would assume that both cameras as being reflex would have a degree shutter but both have a Degree one.
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Step 2 Light Meter Compensations Bolex have never produced a camera with a standard degree shutter angle which is a problem as it is assumed everywhere apart from the odd exceptions Bolex most definitely included that all cine cameras will have a rotating mirror shutter with half the light when shooting going to the viewfinder and the other half to the film.
So your exposure readings will be some stops out unless you are using one of the first two options below: Instead you can either alter the film speed by a factor or the fps rate to compensate for the shutter angle difference that you cannot alter on these meters.
Now this is the commonest speed and shutter angle someone would use and it gets quoted quite a lot. It can be traced back to the original Bolex Manuals which come with the cameras as well! So where does the Degrees shutter angle come from that Andrew quotes in his book Bolex Bible?
All he did was take the compensated values he was being quoted and put them in the following standard formula: The 3 degree difference making a small but we think negligible shift in correct exposure. The Positions that the the variable shutter switch can be be set to and how this affects the open angle of the variable shutter and how it would actually look if you could fully see the shutter complete a rotation is shown below.
White is the Degreee Fixed area of the shutter. Black is the variable shutter. The open angle of the shutter is shown by the empty space where you can see the prism and its this open shutter angle needed for exposure calculations.
The books and guides are all old and do not assume which was the case at the time that any amateur would have access to an advanced light meter where you could specify the shutter angle exactly as they were probably for high end studio work at the time and very mabual.
After all the discussion above you may be thinking of spending some money to get a decent light meter which allows you to enter all the exact shutter angles and avoids all the hassle of bplex fudge table.
What if you could for a similar price dispense with entirely having to even use a separate light meter and get true T hrough T he L ens metering of a scene? This only being available as standard on the H16 EL camera although implemented in a different way.
The EL has a popup cell that measures the light of a scene by popping into the filming path and moves out when filming. In the retro fitted conversion a number of reflective mirror strips are applied to the shutter as when the camera isn’t running the shutter always closes over the film at an exact point it’s natural stop position so a reflective strip can be placed centrally to reflect light into the tiny cds cells to take a reading prior to shooting.
BOLEX H16 REFLEX Instruction Manual
The meter also takes y16 account every variable shutter position as you set it and frees you up to be less burdened by the exposure side of things and work more quickly and more creatively and dare I say it? More point mnual shoot. Bolex camera — owners have been waiting for it…. Now a Dutch electronics-firm has successfully solved the problem; TTL light metering installed in all spring driven Bolex-reflex cameras 16mm, DS-8 or standard 8 can now be equipped with it, making boled reliable workhorses even more versatile.
Many movie-makers find the spring- driven models a blessing under many operating conditions, but up to now they had to do with hand held exposure meters now they can have the optimal accuracy of TTL metering even for extreme macro and telephoto work or submarine cinematography.
As the illustrations show, the installation of TTL metering has been carried out in a technically mmanual way and leaves all normal camera functions intact. This knob has the necessary potentiometer and the battery clip attached in the film chamber. The system is activated by pressing a small button in the camera base, this will apply battery current for approx 20 seconds. The shut off eliminates battery drain.
On all the 16mm models, operation of the camera with any of the factory set shutter openings is taken into account automatically adjusting the measuring accordingly, this cannot be accomplished on the 8mm models. For use under submarine conditions it is necessary to switch the 20 second shut off over to continuous a read out remains possible only as long as the camera drive is off. Pull the knob outwards and the LED on the side lights continuously to show your now in continuous mode when done press the bolxe in.